Devilled

What makes this tiered assembly so brilliant is the addition of devilled eggs, four of them, piped high with yellow yolk that’s been blended with soy and sesame, and then topped with a dollop of salty trout roe.

There’s rabbit stew and devilled shrimps on toast, and bar snacks include egg and cress sandwiches to help soak up local real ale and cider.

The Girish Park-er Shoitan Deem was a devilled egg or Deemer Devil with a shami kebab coating instead of the usual minced meat coating.